Delight is not always in the details

   Melanie Ward, a stylist who worked closely with Helmut Lang in the 1990s, Karl Lagerfeld and his label short in New York, here backstage at Versace. Donatella Versace was to explain so close, why his collection was so thin, Ms. Ward, offered her stylist again some practical wisdom.

It is always a good sign, she said, as the models say during connections, they want their own clothing, and vote for tips cheeky hot pants and Versace dresses were clearly agree.

We admit that a thin girl wearing white clothes in life what she wants. And after reading some of the creations stifling of Milan, like satin aquilano.rimondi, the dimples appear fabric on the abdomen, or the number of components in the summer seems Ferragamo (Harlequin tested crocodile leather coats, dresses, high boots with lace spaghetti) fashion puff Ms. Versace began to appear shiny.

Milan eager to make a big show of his clothes and crafts. It's like a guy with his beautiful red Ferrari, but unlike the Ferrari, what's "under the hood" is not necessarily to wear fun clothes. Ferragamo is a good example. Massimiliano Giornetti threw all the clothes. Notes for show PR staff uses "hyper-built" describe a trench coat. But it was obvious that Mr. Giornetti work not given enough. Where were the summer-weight fabrics, why so many western drives?

Giorgio Armani often starts mourning, to do things well, such as Armani model silly hats, for example, or trying to attract the interest of a short ball. But at least Mr. Armani does not try to fool anyone with his tailor. One or two of his jackets cut Sunday seemed woven leather or silk cord. They were extremely light as all the jackets and tops were among the fluid and wide-leg trousers and pale blue silk silver gray or organza.

If it were not for the bright fabrics and polishing days Armani jacket, could happen outfit for pajamas. In a fairly simple, Mr. Armani has updated his modern uniform. Aside from a few short films and long skirts, showed any device with pants for casual silhouette and still mobile. And models were free enough to work behind the scenes setting up for the final, but they were still attached to their hats.

Peter Dundas, with its pristine white coats hanging clothes Pucci, Angela Missoni trapeze dresses with sheer mesh: A number of designers are interested in the consistency and facilitate things. Ms. Missoni liked the idea of ??assigning numbers waiflike with his flowing robes, creating shades of coral and green with base. But it was also a good way to get the Missoni knits, without flag them completely surrounded.

Two influences hovering over the Milan Shows: Minimalism Raf Simons (of Dior Couture, as well as his latest collections from Jil Sander) and extreme volume boy Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Falls map. Consuelo Castiglioni for Marni clothing was visibly cleaner than usual, with peplums or folded pieces of fabric to make dresses skirt cotton black or white. In addition, peaks showed just with matching shorts.

On Sunday, I heard through the showroom to see Jil Sander collection. It was also the editor of InStyle buyer and Harvey Nichols in London. The response was extremely positive, as a publisher, reaching a loose white cotton twill dress, said: "I want to wear them now."

This review is more weight than a pattern?

This collection, Ms. Sander was back after an absence of eight years. . "Excellence in Manufacturing" She told Sarah Mower of Vogue she wants to be the motto of his company on the slope, saw Ms. Sander clothes much appeal to their basic shapes, and rounded - how including a men's jacket cotton mulberry in a knee-length dress female middy blouse in white cotton with a bit of momentum into the hem. A navy blue skirt cotton slim with a matching jacket trimmed a little attention by all, as well as deep pocketed blazer with shorts and summer dresses all cowards.

But when I saw the clothes more closely, I appreciated the currency Ms. Sander. If someone could not make these clothes, they should not be in business, because the building was not complicated at all. Obviously Ms. Sander raised some ideas if they worked with Uniqlo. Even when good people around them Sander, it is another designer have much less doctrinaire, judging by this collection. The complaint 10 years ago that his creations not feminine enough. Minimalist and modern, of course. Well, that's a big change.

The spirit of Karl Lagerfeld is a huge business of references, with a sense of the game in the collection of Fendi, where black-framed color blocked skirts and dresses seemed treated as folded paper construction. The colors are Lagerfeldian - indeed fall turquoise - and furs are often confused in tissues such as magic. Bags come hang as colored cubes, while the wand is a joke, its status with its own reader side pocket of a shopping bag.

At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier had floral print dresses. Sizes with clean, sharp shoulders, a nice piste 40s, with the introduction of the raised platform pumps At best, his clothes suggest a cold indifference of fashion. This collection had lined feel with a touch of eccentricity in silver cocktail dresses, but the excessive amount of embroidery seemed old hat.